The vertical stab cap looks rough, but it's not done yet. I cut the aft edge of the foam plug off at 45 degrees then slid it into the cap (with packing tape on it to make it release from the fiberglass). I started with flox and laid it into the gap made by the 45 degree cut. This provides more surface area for the flox to adhere to the cap. then I laid one layer of fiberglass cloth down on the surface of the foam and embedded the ends into the flox. Lastly, I spread a final layer of flox over the cloth to build it up to a level close to the edges of the cap. Once this dries, I'll scuff it up with sandpaper and then put a final layer of micro over it all to smooth out the surface and round over the edges.
I was thinking of leaving the proseal off of the elevator tips, but the fit of them (at least this right side) is bad enough that I think the proseal is good to have for some extra adhesion. Even though proseal isn't truly an adhesive, it still helps. I wouldn't actually want to use a major adhesive, because if there's one place where damage might happen someday, it's likely to be the fiberglass tips. Proseal will be a little easier to remove during a repair than a serious adhesive. The pop rivets have a hard time pulling the fiberglass against the elevator skin because the countersunk holes get so big in the thin fiberglass. I'll definitely go the extra step of using epoxy/micro (and maybe fiberglass cloth) to even out the intersection between the tip and the skin. I just did the right side today. I learned a few things, so I should be able to get the left side to fit a little better.
For a change of pace from all of the tips, I started playing around with the empennage fairing. I marked it up and trimmed it to get it to at least lay onto the parts. That was easier said than done - it's a complex shape and not exactly all that close of a fit right out of the box. I ended up using my heat gun to heat up some of the areas and push them into position. With enough heat the fiberglass becomes pliable and you can hold it in a new position while it cools. It didn't get the fit exactly where it needs to be, but it's close enough for now. In order to really make this fit well I'm going to have to cover all of the skins with tape, butter the back side of the fairing with micro, then press it into position to mold directly to the aluminum. The main fairing is fiberglass, but the bottom side of the horizontal stab has an aluminum strip instead of fiberglass. All of these parts will be screwed in place.
